Your First Babydoll Lambing Season

Babydoll ewes are generally bred in their second season, once they are at least two years old. As seasonal breeders, Babydolls rely on hormonal changes triggered by shortening day length, which means early Autumn to early Winter is the only time of year when joining will reliably succeed.

Most breeders join ewes during March and April, with lambs arriving from late July onwards. 

Careful preparation before joining plays a major role in lambing success and contributes to stronger, healthier lambs.

Having a clear joining and lambing plan is extremely helpful. It allows you to predict lambing dates, track which matings produce the best results, and plan future breeding decisions more confidently.

Rams require preparation well before joining begins. Rams produce semen on a seven-week cycle, meaning the semen used during joining has been developing for nearly two months beforehand. For example, if joining begins on April 30, semen production started around mid-March.

During this period, good nutrition and low-stress handling are essential. Avoid shearing or crutching close to joining, as stress can negatively affect fertility.

Rams should be at Body Condition Score 3 at joining. Supplementary protein, such as lupins, can support sperm production if pasture quality is low.

A full 5T check should be carried out before joining:

Your veterinarian can assist with this check and demonstrate how to assess fertility and general health.

It is essential to use Ovine Brucellosis-Free (OBF) rams. Ovine Brucellosis is a highly infectious bacterial disease that causes infertility and has no cure. Babydolls appear particularly vulnerable, so only purchase rams from accredited OBF breeders.

It is also essential to only to use rams who have been tested negative or are pedigree negative for Gaucher Disease. This is an inherited genetic fault which lambs can inherit and can cause spontaneous abortions, difficult birthing, lambs who fail to thrive or must be put down at birth due to an inability to stand. 

Ewes should also be at Body Condition Score 3 prior to joining and maintained on a consistent nutrition program for at least six weeks beforehand. While some breeders practise “flushing” by increasing feed before mating, research suggests ewes already in good condition show little benefit and overfeeding can actually reduce fertility.

Ewes should be checked carefully for any issues that may affect conception or lamb-rearing, including problems with feet, vulva, or udder. Trim feet if needed and address any health concerns early. Shearing or crutching should be done well before joining to avoid stress.

It is also essential to only to use ewes who have been tested negative or are pedigree negative for Gaucher Disease. This is an inherited genetic fault which lambs can inherit and can cause spontaneous abortions, difficult birthing, lambs who fail to thrive or must be put down at birth due to an inability to stand. 

Rams and ewes should be kept separate for at least one month prior to joining. The greater the separation, the better. On smaller properties, maximise the distance between mobs as much as possible to reduce early exposure and help ensure a more defined joining period. 

Nutrition plays a critical role in conception and early pregnancy. Pregnant ewes should have access to green pasture and plenty of clean water. If pasture quality is poor, supplementation with good-quality hay and small amounts of grain or pellets may be necessary.

Care must be taken with grain feeding, as sheep can very happily overeat and develop bloat, which can be deadly. Safer options include oats, barley, lupins, and pellets. Wheat carries a higher risk of digestive problems and should be used cautiously.

Babydolls can gain weight quickly, so monitoring body condition throughout joining and pregnancy is particularly important. A pregnant ewe should ideally maintain a condition score between 3 and 3.5.

If the backbone and ribs cannot be felt at all, the ewe is too fat. If they feel sharp and prominent, she is too thin. Balanced condition supports easier lambing and healthier lambs.

Minerals are especially important during the final six weeks of pregnancy. Lick blocks or loose mineral mixes provide essential nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, and cobalt. Some breeders choose to make their own mineral mix using equal parts of salt, calcium, causmag, and lime.

Vaccination with a Six-in-One vaccine or similar is recommended three to five weeks before lambing. This protection passes to the lamb before birth and helps safeguard both ewe and lamb. Vaccinate only when sheep are dry and weather conditions are suitable.

Spending time on pre-joining planning gives valuable insight into your flock. Observing behaviour, body condition, and interactions helps you make informed decisions that improve breeding outcomes and long-term flock health.

Good preparation at joining sets the foundation for a smoother lambing season and healthier Babydoll lambs.

Good preparation before lambing begins makes the process far less stressful for both you and your sheep. Having your facilities set up and equipment ready in advance is always preferable to scrambling for supplies once lambing is underway. This section outlines the physical setup you may need, along with useful items to have on hand.

Before lambing starts, make sure you have suitable sheep yards or at least a secure area where a ewe can be safely restrained if required. Yards can be constructed from a variety of materials, but safety and comfort, for you, the ewe, and the lamb, should always be the priority.

A funnel-style yard system is particularly helpful, as it allows ewes to be moved calmly from open areas into smaller pens with minimal stress. This is especially important if a ewe needs assistance, as chasing her around a large space when she is already under strain can create unnecessary distress.

Some Babydoll breeders choose to lamb their sheep under cover, as shelter can significantly improve lamb survival rates. Sheltering helps reduce exposure to cold, wind, and rain, and can also minimise issues such as mismothering or feeding difficulties. This is particularly helpful for ewes with twins or triplets, who may become confused or temporarily separated from their lambs.

It is important not to overcrowd sheltered areas, as ewes prefer quiet and space when lambing. One commonly used approach is to pen ewes inside overnight and allow them out during the day when weather conditions are suitable.

A sheep race within the yards is extremely useful and makes many lambing tasks much easier. It allows a ewe to be held securely if you need to assist with a difficult birth, milk her, or support a lamb while it learns to feed.

Hygiene is a vital part of lambing preparation. Yards should be thoroughly cleaned ahead of time, and lambing pens lined with deep, clean straw. Soiled bedding should be removed and replaced as needed, with most breeders cleaning pens at least once daily. Fresh water and good-quality hay should always be available while a ewe is penned.

There are several items worth keeping close by during lambing. Disposable gloves are essential whenever you assist a ewe, helping protect both you and the animals from infection. Some breeders prefer long lambing gloves from farm supply stores, while others use standard disposable gloves.

Old towels are incredibly useful. They provide a clean surface for newborn lambs, especially if lambing occurs in a dirty area, and can be used to rub and dry lambs if they are cold.

Betadine antiseptic should be ready to dip the lamb’s umbilical cord immediately after birth. Dipping the cord helps prevent joint ill by killing harmful bacteria. A small cup or bottle cap works well for this purpose.

Scales are another helpful tool. Regularly weighing lambs helps ensure they are feeding well and growing appropriately. Many breeders simply place the lamb in a shopping bag and hang it from the scales.

Some breeders keep penicillin, needles, and syringes on hand, depending on the policies of their local veterinarian. If permitted, ensure you receive clear instructions on when and how to use antibiotics, and always know the approximate weight of the lamb so the correct dose can be given.

If your vet does not initially allow medication to be kept at home, building a relationship over time may lead to greater trust and support for emergency situations. Always keep your vet’s phone number easily accessible, along with the contact details of a sheep mentor if you have one.

Lamb coats, Woolovers, or even small dog coats can be very helpful for lambs at risk of becoming cold. The coat should never cover the lamb’s hindquarters, as this is where the ewe smells to identify her lamb. If necessary, the coat can be rolled up to keep this area clear. For those who enjoy knitting, there are many lamb coat patterns available online.

Other useful warming supplies include glucose powder, a digital thermometer, warm blankets, hot water bottles or heat packs, and even a hair dryer. These items are invaluable when caring for a hypothermic lamb, which must be brought indoors and warmed slowly and carefully.

Electrolytes such as Vytrate Liquid or Scourban can be useful for treating lambs with scours. Tube-feeding equipment, including a tube and syringe, may also be needed in emergencies. It is essential to learn correct tube-feeding technique from a veterinarian or experienced carer, as incorrect placement can cause milk to enter the lungs and may be fatal.

Milk supplies should be organised in advance. Many breeders use powdered milk formulated for young animals, though full-cream cow’s milk is also suitable. Baby bottles and teats work well for newborn lambs and can later be replaced with lamb-specific teats if preferred. Having a colostrum replacement, such as Kwikstart or Impact, is also recommended in case a lamb does not receive enough colostrum from its dam.

Keep several clean buckets and tubs nearby for warm water or other urgent needs. Obstetric lubricant, which can be purchased online, is essential for assisted births. Animal marking paint is useful for identifying lambs or ewes before tagging, and a notebook and pen should be ready to record birth dates, ewe numbers, and other identifying details.

Some breeders also keep Vicks VapoRub on hand when attempting to encourage a ewe to adopt an orphan lamb, although results can vary. Rub the VapoRub on the ewes nose, and on the lamb’s head and rear. 

Ear tags should be ordered well before lambing begins, as delivery can take time. Ideally, each lamb should receive an individual identification number along with your PIC number. Stud lambs are often tagged in both ears in case one tag is lost, with the second tag written or printed using a tag-marking pen. Lambs can be tagged from one day old.

For lambs born with knuckling or crooked legs, icy pole sticks or craft sticks can be gently taped to the legs to help encourage correct alignment. Many mild cases will resolve naturally once the lamb begins feeding and gaining strength.

Lambing is an exciting but critical time, and close observation is essential to ensure the best outcomes for both ewes and lambs. Understanding what is normal, recognising when intervention is required, and acting promptly can make a significant difference.

For stud breeders, accurately recording which lamb belongs to which ewe is essential, particularly when several ewes lamb around the same time and in close proximity to each other. One practical approach is to spray each ewe with her identification number using removable animal spray paint before lambing begins. This allows you to identify her easily from a distance without disturbing her during labour.

Once the lamb is a little older, it can be caught and marked with an identifying colour or fitted with its ear tag. Ear tagging can be carried out quite early provided it is done calmly, gently and efficiently.

DNA testing has become popular in recent years to assist with identification of parentage if there is any doubt. 

Once lambing begins, ewes should be monitored closely, ideally every two to three hours. Although gestation length varies, most Babydoll ewes lamb between 142 and 152 days.

The first sign that a ewe is beginning to lamb is usually the appearance of a small amount of mucus from the vagina. This mucus is the cervical seal. At this early stage, the ewe may become quieter than usual and separate herself from the mob. She may paw the ground to form a nest, stop grazing, stretch, arch her back, or appear hollow in front of the hips. This stage can last several hours and generally requires observation only.

As labour progresses, contractions become stronger and the lamb, along with two water bags, moves into the dilated cervix. The first water bag usually breaks, followed by the second, which contains thicker fluid. If either water bag does not break and remains visible, this is not usually a concern. It is helpful to note the time when the first water bag appears, as the lamb is typically born within forty-five minutes to an hour.

During this stage, the ewe may lie down, strain, stand, and circle repeatedly. She will often stay away from the mob, and any ewe standing alone should be monitored carefully. If labour is progressing normally, the lamb should be born within the hour.

If no lamb appears within this timeframe, or if only a small foot or nose is visible with no further progress, assistance is required. Other warning signs include a swollen or stuck head, the ewe stopping her straining, beginning to graze, wandering away, or showing no further progress.

If intervention is necessary, always wear disposable gloves to protect yourself from bacteria and use plenty of lubricant. Once the lamb is delivered, do not dry it. The ewe needs to smell the lamb immediately to form a strong bond. Place the lamb directly under her nose and then quickly step back to allow bonding to occur.

Excessive interference can increase the risk of the ewe rejecting her lamb. As each lambing difficulty is different, it is strongly recommended to learn correct techniques in advance by watching reputable instructional videos or seeking advice from an experienced sheep breeder or veterinarian.

The most common lambing complication is dystocia, where the birth is obstructed. This can be caused by a leg bent backwards, a breech presentation, a head turned back, tangled limbs during multiple births, or a lamb with a large head.

Hypocalcaemia may also occur in ewes with low calcium levels late in pregnancy. Another possible issue is incomplete cervical dilation, where the cervix fails to open fully despite the lamb entering the birth canal.

Ketosis, also known as pregnancy toxaemia or twin-lamb disease, is a serious and potentially fatal condition. Affected ewes may stagger, collapse, appear blind, or star-gaze. Ketosis is caused by insufficient energy intake, particularly during the final six weeks of pregnancy or in ewes carrying multiple lambs. Stress, cold or wet weather, and heavy worm burdens can all contribute. If ketosis is suspected, undiluted Vytrate may help, and calcium–magnesium injections can be administered under the skin. Veterinary advice should be sought immediately.

Overweight ewes may struggle to lamb due to internal fat deposits, highlighting the importance of careful body condition management in Babydolls. Vaginal prolapse can also occur late in pregnancy and is a medical emergency requiring immediate veterinary attention.

The afterbirth is usually expelled two to three hours after the lamb is born. Some ewes will not allow the lamb to feed until this has occurred. Never attempt to pull the afterbirth from the ewe; it must detach naturally.

It is normal for ewes to eat the afterbirth, which is why it is often not seen. If you do later find it on the ground, remove it promptly to avoid attracting foxes or crows to the lambing area.

After lambing, it is important to confirm that the lamb is feeding properly. Immediately after birth, the ewe may push the lamb away, particularly if she is still passing the afterbirth. This behaviour is normal. Return quietly a short time later to ensure the lamb has begun to drink.

With twins or triplets, the stronger lamb may outcompete its siblings, leaving weaker lambs without sufficient milk and so be ready to supplement feed and possibly to take one and raise as a poddy lamb. 

Lambs that are quiet, lying alone, thin, or cold may not be feeding adequately and require urgent attention.

Begin by gently checking the ewe’s udder. A healthy udder should feel soft and warm. A hard, painful udder, or milk that is smelly or absent, may indicate mastitis. Mastitis is serious, difficult to treat, and requires veterinary care. If only one teat is affected and there is a single lamb, the lamb may continue feeding from the healthy side. If both teats are affected, or if the ewe has multiple lambs, the lambs will need to be bottle-raised.

If the udder appears normal, check that milk has let down by gently expressing the teat. Sometimes the waxy plug has not released and can be removed by gently pulling down on the teat. If the ewe has little or no milk, the lamb should be supplemented with colostrum from another recently lambed ewe or a commercial colostrum replacement. Keep the lamb with its mother and gradually reduce supplementation as her milk supply improves.

Large teats can also prevent lambs from attaching properly. Regularly milking the ewe can reduce teat size, while the lamb is supported with bottle feeding. As the teat softens, the lamb will usually begin feeding naturally, further reducing the risk of mastitis.

Babydoll lambs are born with several natural adaptations that help them survive in the first hours and days after birth. Their wool provides excellent insulation by trapping warm air close to the body, while huddling with other lambs helps conserve energy and share body heat. Newborn lambs also have reserves of brown fat, a specialised fat that can be quickly converted into heat. Shivering further helps raise body temperature, and their metabolism can increase slightly in cold conditions to generate additional warmth.

Despite these adaptations, newborn lambs remain vulnerable. They are born without antibodies and rely entirely on colostrum for protection against disease. Their gut lining is very permeable in the first day of life, allowing bacteria and toxins to enter the bloodstream more easily, while slow gut movement gives bacteria time to multiply. Energy reserves are limited, as brown fat only bridges the gap until regular feeding begins. In addition, lambs have a large surface area relative to their bodyweight, making them especially prone to heat loss.

Careful monitoring, prompt feeding, and protection from cold are essential to give Babydoll lambs the best possible start.

Close monitoring during lambing season is vital, particularly early mornings and late afternoons when most births occur. Be prepared to assist if a ewe is struggling and have basic supplies ready. If assistance is required, ensure the lamb’s airways are clear and allow the ewe to immediately smell and lick her lamb to encourage bonding.

Colostrum intake is critical. Lambs should receive at least 100 mL of colostrum within the first few hours of life. Without adequate colostrum, lambs quickly lose energy and are at high risk of hypothermia and death. Colostrum supplements can be lifesaving when natural intake is insufficient.

Watch closely for signs of hypothermia, particularly in cold or wet conditions. Prompt intervention is essential. Once the lamb is born, allow the ewe and lamb time alone to bond and do not interfere. Excessive interference can disrupt the natural process. If a ewe shows signs of rejection, close supervision, penning, or temporary assistance may help. In some cases, bottle-raising may be necessary, especially with triplets.

Ewes need access to good quality pasture, and additional feed may be required to maintain milk supply. Lambs begin grazing within a few weeks, but milk remains essential until the rumen develops fully. Babydoll lambs can be weaned from eight to ten weeks of age.

Newborn Babydoll lambs are vulnerable to predators such as foxes, crows, eagles, and feral cats. Foxes often attack at night, sometimes carrying lambs away or biting their tails. Fox lights or flashing deterrent lights may help in darker rural areas, and some breeders construct fox-proof lambing enclosures.

Crows can cause severe damage by first eating the afterbirth and then pecking at the eyes, tongue, nose, and anus of newborn lambs. These injuries are difficult to treat and often become infected, even with antibiotic use. Eagles may take resting lambs, and feral cats can target very small lambs, so trapping may be necessary where cats are present near lambing paddocks.

During lambing season, it is almost inevitable that most breeders will need to hand-raise at least one lamb. Poddy lambs require significant time, financial investment, and commitment, and sadly, even with excellent care, survival cannot always be guaranteed. This guide provides general advice on identifying lambs that need bottle-feeding and how to care for them successfully.

Lambs requiring hand-rearing are often easy to identify. They may be standing alone in the paddock, appearing thin, hunched, weak, or cold, or wandering through the mob attempting to latch onto any ewe they encounter. These lambs must be caught and brought into care promptly, as delays greatly reduce their chance of survival.

Lambs from twin or triplet births commonly need assistance, particularly as Babydoll ewes often struggle to produce enough milk for three lambs. In these cases, it is usually best to remove one lamb after ensuring it has received adequate colostrum.

Some lambs become orphans because their mother fails to clean them after birth, leading to rapid heat loss. Others are rejected for reasons that are not always clear. A ewe may accept one twin while aggressively rejecting the other, sometimes injuring the weaker lamb. Mastitis or other udder problems can also prevent a ewe from feeding her lambs, leaving bottle-rearing as the only option.

Colostrum is critical to a lamb’s survival. It provides highly concentrated energy, supports body temperature, and delivers antibodies that form the lamb’s early immune system. A lamb requires approximately 50 ml of colostrum per kilogram of body weight within the first few hours of life, and around 200 ml per kilogram within the first 24 hours.

After this window, the ewe no longer produces colostrum, and the lamb can no longer absorb antibodies effectively. If a lamb has not received enough colostrum, commercial supplements such as Kwikstart or Impact may be used, although natural colostrum from a freshly lambed ewe is always superior.

Where possible, consider collecting and freezing excess colostrum for emergencies. Freezing small portions in ice cube trays or zip-lock bags allows you to thaw only what is needed. Colostrum should be warmed slowly in hot water or a double saucepan and must never be heated in a microwave. Cow colostrum sourced from a dairy farm can also be used and is often referred to as “liquid gold.”

Warmth is essential for young poddy lambs, as hypothermia is a leading cause of death. Without their mother’s body heat and the insulating qualities of ewe’s milk, poddy lambs lose heat quickly. For at least the first week, lambs should be kept indoors overnight.

A thermostat-controlled heater or infrared heat lamp provides a warm resting area, and lamb coats such as Wool-Overs or small dog jackets are very helpful. During mild weather, lambs may go outside during the day, provided they have shelter, remain rugged, and are kept in a clean environment to minimise disease risk.

Once adequate colostrum has been received, lambs can transition to full-cream cow’s milk or a specialised lamb milk replacer. Overfeeding is extremely dangerous, particularly in young lambs, and can quickly lead to illness or death. Smaller, more frequent feeds are always safer.

All feeding equipment must be washed thoroughly in hot, soapy water and disinfected regularly. Dirty bottles or teats can introduce bacteria and cause scours.

Young lambs often feed best from a baby bottle with a soft teat, which suits their small mouths. As the lamb grows, a lamb-specific teat can be introduced. If the lamb resists the change, hold it securely and offer the teat during its first feed of the day, when it is hungriest.

Both cow’s milk and powdered milk replacer are suitable. Some breeders slightly increase the fat content by adding cream or increasing powder concentration when using cow’s milk. Babydoll lambs are small, so feed volumes are often lower than general guidelines. Very young Babydoll lambs thrive on feeds of 50–75 ml at a time, and it is best to avoid exceeding around 150 ml per feed during the early weeks. Night feeds are usually required for the first few days.

From around two weeks of age, lambs will begin nibbling grass or pellets. Offer good-quality lamb pellets and fresh green feed. As the lamb grows, gradually increase milk volumes while reducing feed frequency. Most poddy lambs can be weaned between ten and twelve weeks, depending on their size and condition.

Scours are one of the most serious and common problems in hand-reared lambs. A lamb that suddenly stops feeding or develops thick, dark droppings that progress to yellow, foul-smelling diarrhoea requires urgent treatment. Penicillin is often necessary, and veterinary advice should be sought promptly. Without rapid intervention, scours can be fatal.

Abomasal bloat is another very dangerous condition, usually appearing when lambs begin eating solid food between two and four weeks of age. It is almost always fatal. The most effective prevention method is feeding “sour milk,” which is made by adding yoghurt to milk and allowing it to ferment overnight in a warm place. This must be prepared in advance; simply stirring yoghurt into milk at feeding time is ineffective. Sour milk should be introduced gradually from two to three weeks of age. Some properties rarely see this condition, while others experience it regularly due to soil-based bacteria.

Joint ill is caused by bacterial infection, often entering through the navel. It presents as swollen, painful leg joints and can spread rapidly, presenting as limping first in one leg and then spreading to the other legs. Veterinary antibiotics are required, and even with treatment, recovery can be difficult.

Occasionally, a ewe dies leaving behind a lamb that is too old to accept a bottle easily but still too young to be weaned. These lambs are commonly around two to four weeks of age and can be challenging to manage. Offer the bottle patiently and repeatedly, as some lambs will eventually accept it.

If the lamb refuses the bottle, provide high-quality lamb pellets, green hay such as vetch, and sprinkle milk powder over the feed to encourage intake and keep your fingers crossed.

In some cases, a ewe with a very young lamb, or one that has recently lost her lamb, may accept an orphan. Success varies, as many ewes are strongly bonded to their own lambs. To attempt fostering, place the ewe and orphan lamb in a small pen.

The ewe may initially reject the lamb, so restraining her while guiding the lamb to the teat may be necessary. Two people usually make this easier. If the lamb struggles to feed while standing, hold the lamb gently on its side beneath the udder and lift the lamb up so it can locate the teat.

Fostering may take several days, and close supervision is essential. Rubbing the scent of the ewe’s dead lamb or afterbirth onto the orphan often improves success. Some breeders also use Vicks applied to the lamb’s head and rear and under the ewe’s nose to mask unfamiliar smells.

If the ewe becomes aggressive or continues to reject the lamb, bottle-rearing will be required.

Cold, limp, or unresponsive lambs must be brought indoors immediately and warmed very slowly. These lambs often have body temperatures too low to register on a thermometer.

Begin by gently drying the lamb with towels and use a hair dryer on low heat if necessary. Place the lamb near a heater and put a warm (not hot) heat pack or wrapped hot-water bottle beneath it. Cover the lamb with wool blankets, coats or anything else you can find, paying particular attention to the head which loses heat rapidly. 

Rub glucose powder, available from chemists, onto the lamb’s gums repeatedly as it warms to provide energy and protect the brain. This step is critical. Warming can take several hours. Monitor the lamb’s temperature until it reaches approximately 38°C. Only once the lamb is warm and alert should it be fed. Lambs who are too weak to suck will require tube-feeding by someone properly trained.  Don’t feed colostrum until the lamb is awake and alert; doing so can do more harm than good. 

After recovery the ewe may reject the lamb, in which case it will need to be raised as a poddy lamb. The time needed for the lamb to warm up and be strong enough to go back with the ewe is too long and the smell of the lamb, which is critical for the ewe’s acceptance, may have been rubbed off so the ewe no longer recognises the lamb as her own. 

At some point, most breeders encounter a Babydoll ewe who is unable or unwilling to raise her own lamb. When this happens, bottle-feeding the orphan is often the default option, but it is time-consuming, costly, and not always successful. Encouraging another ewe to adopt the lamb is usually easier and more natural for the lamb, although it does require patience and careful management. Because ewes are not biologically programmed to raise lambs that are not their own, spontaneous adoption is uncommon and typically requires human assistance.

There are many reasons a ewe may fail to bond with or reject her lamb. She may have died, developed mastitis, or experienced a difficult birth that disrupted bonding. Excessive human interference during or immediately after lambing can also interfere with the ewe–lamb bond.

Environmental factors play an important role as well. Lambs born during heavy rain may lose their natural scent, making them unrecognisable to the ewe. Lambs that become cold and require time away for warming may be forgotten entirely. Even a separation of as little as thirty minutes immediately after birth can be enough to break the bond.

Triplet lambs are particularly vulnerable, as some ewes cannot produce enough milk to raise all three and may reject one. Ewes that wander away in search of feed, or are repeatedly disturbed by people, may also leave lambs behind. While occasional unassisted adoption does occur in the paddock, it is rare, especially once a lamb is more than a few days old.

The best candidates for fostering are ewes that have recently lambed, ideally within the last day, or ewes that have just lost their own lamb. A ewe that has given birth to a single lamb is often more receptive to fostering than one already caring for multiples.

The foster ewe should still be producing colostrum, have a healthy udder, and have two functioning teats with a good milk supply. The closer her lambing date is to the foster lamb’s age, the higher the chance of success.

Fostering is most successful when the lamb is very young, preferably less than one week old. Lambs that have been bottle-fed for an extended period often become strongly attached to the bottle and human carers, making them reluctant to nurse from a ewe.

Whenever possible, attempt fostering as early as you can, ideally before the lamb becomes accustomed to artificial feeding.

Scent transfer is the most reliable method of persuading a ewe to accept a foster lamb. Rubbing the ewe’s dead lamb thoroughly over the foster lamb while the dead lamb is still wet helps mask the foster’s scent and makes it smell like the lamb the ewe is expecting.

If available, afterbirth can also be rubbed onto the foster lamb to strengthen the scent transfer. Some breeders use the skin of the dead lamb tied carefully around the foster, though this should only be done while wearing gloves and with care. The goal is to make the foster lamb smell as close as possible to the ewe’s original lamb.

Once scent transfer is complete, the ewe and foster lamb should be placed together in a very small, secure pen so the ewe cannot avoid the lamb. Temporary restraint using a headstall, tying the ewe briefly, or using a ewe-holding cradle can help keep everyone safe while the lamb feeds.

Repeated, supervised feeding is essential. You may need to hold the ewe steady while the lamb nurses several times a day, and sometimes once late at night. Gently talking to and stroking the ewe can help calm her, and offering sheep pellets provides a useful distraction.

If the lamb struggles to locate the teat, placing it gently on its side beneath the udder often helps. Most lambs will naturally lift their heads and attach more easily in this position. Continue assisting until the lamb can feed confidently on its own.

Some breeders find scent-masking products helpful, particularly when used alongside scent transfer. Applying a small amount of Vicks VapoRub to the ewe’s nose and to the lamb’s head and rump can help reduce rejection behaviours. Reapplication over several days may be necessary.

Supplementary feeding may be needed if the lamb is not receiving enough milk from the foster ewe. Full-cream cow’s milk or a commercial milk replacer can be given using a baby bottle, provided the lamb has already received adequate colostrum.

Colostrum replacement products such as Kwik Start or Impact are useful to keep on hand, particularly during the early stages of fostering.

Most ewes initially show some level of rejection. This may include butting the lamb, stepping away, or blocking access to the udder. This behaviour often softens over a few days as the ewe becomes accustomed to the foster lamb.

Close supervision is essential during this period. Some ewes may become aggressive enough to seriously injure or kill a lamb. If this occurs, fostering should be abandoned immediately and the lamb raised as a poddy.

Signs that a ewe has accepted a foster lamb include protective stamping when approached, resting or sleeping beside the lamb, and allowing unrestricted access to the udder. A lamb that is full will often refuse both the bottle and the teat and may stand stretching contentedly after feeding.

Acceptance may occur quickly, within one or two days, or may take up to a week. If the ewe continues to reject the lamb after seven days, bottle-rearing is usually the safest and kindest option.

As lambing season draws to a close, it is time to plan your lamb vaccination program. With several vaccines available for lambs between one and four months of age, the choices can feel confusing and the costs can add up. However, these vaccines protect against serious and often fatal diseases, making them an important investment in your Babydoll’s health.

It is strongly recommended that you discuss your vaccination plan with your veterinarian or animal health adviser, as the best program will depend on your property, flock size, and breeding goals. Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) provides an excellent sheep vaccination guide, which many breeders find helpful when planning their program.

The vaccines most commonly used in lambs are the Five-in-One (5-in-1) and Six-in-One (6-in-1) products.

Five-in-One vaccines protect against:

All of these diseases can cause rapid illness or sudden death.

Six-in-One vaccines protect against all of the above diseases, plus Cheesy Gland (CLA). When one of the veterinarians consulted was asked if there was any reason not to vaccinate against these diseases, his response was simple: “Only cost.”

Vaccination costs can be a concern for both hobby breeders and commercial producers, as many vaccines are sold in large containers that contain more doses than small flocks require. Fortunately, several manufacturers now offer smaller pack sizes, making vaccination more affordable for Babydoll breeders.

Most vaccines expire 30 days after opening, so many breeders plan the two-dose schedule within that timeframe to avoid wastage. Lambs generally receive their first dose at around three weeks of age, followed by a second dose four weeks later.

Smaller pack options include:

Choosing between 5-in-1 and 6-in-1 is a personal decision, though many breeders feel the additional protection against Cheesy Gland is worth the small extra cost. Seven-in-One vaccines include protection against Erysipelas Arthritis but are usually sold only in large volumes, making them less practical and more expensive for small flocks.

If you have discovered ways to reduce vaccination costs such as sharing vaccine packs with other breeders BSAA would welcome hearing your ideas. Always remember that vaccinations must be stored in the fridge and should only be given when sheep are dry.

The following overview explains the diseases commonly included in early-life vaccination programs. It also includes Scabby Mouth and Ovine Johne’s Disease (OJD), both of which appear on National Vendor Declaration (NVD) forms when buying or selling sheep.

Clostridial diseases are caused by bacteria commonly found in soil and can result in rapid illness or sudden death.

Pulpy Kidney (also known as Enterotoxemia or Overeating Disease) often causes sudden death in healthy-looking lambs. Neurological signs such as circling, staggering, or seizures may occur.

Tetanus enters through wounds and causes severe muscle stiffness, extreme sensitivity, and the classic “locked jaw.” Many affected lambs do not survive.

Black Disease affects the liver and can cause fever, jaundice, and sudden death.

Blackleg causes severe muscle damage and lameness when bacteria enter the body through wounds or ingestion.

Malignant Oedema is a rapidly progressing infection that causes swelling, skin discolouration, gas under the skin, and often septic shock.

Cheesy Gland is a contagious bacterial disease that causes abscesses in the lymph nodes filled with thick, cheese-like material. It spreads easily between sheep and affects carcass quality, making vaccination important for both commercial producers and small flock owners.

Erysipelas Arthritis, also known as Diamond Skin Disease, causes swollen joints, lameness, and fever, particularly in young lambs. Stress increases susceptibility, and diamond-shaped skin lesions are a characteristic sign.

Scabby Mouth is a viral disease that causes painful blisters and scabs around the mouth. It spreads easily through a flock and can also infect humans. Although it often resolves on its own within a few weeks, outbreaks can reduce lamb growth rates and cause management challenges.

OJD is a serious, slow-developing intestinal disease that causes progressive weight loss and diarrhoea. It spreads through manure and poses significant economic risk, making it a notifiable disease in several Australian states.

Many stud breeders will only purchase sheep that have been vaccinated for OJD. The vaccine requires specialised equipment and must be administered with great care, as accidental injection into humans can be dangerous. Incorrect injection technique can also cause large abscesses in sheep. For these reasons, many breeders choose to have their veterinarian administer the vaccine or engage contractors who specialise in OJD vaccination.

Biosecurity measures such as quarantining new sheep and limiting stock movement are essential in preventing OJD spread. Your veterinarian or state agriculture department can provide guidance, and reliable online resources are available for current information.

Vaccination is only one part of keeping lambs healthy. From around ten weeks of age, lambs begin to develop a worm burden and are particularly vulnerable to parasites. Speak with your veterinarian or animal health adviser about establishing a drenching program for your flock’s first year.

The ParaBoss WormBoss website offers excellent tools and information to help with worm management decisions. Because drenches can be expensive, it is worth identifying which products best suit your property and how they fit into a long-term parasite control strategy. Some brands offer smaller container sizes, and many drenches have long shelf lives when stored correctly. Careful planning can help reduce costs while ensuring your lambs receive effective protection.

Protection source:

What to do:

First Vaccination

Vaccine options:

Protects against:

Notes:

Second (Booster) Vaccination

Vaccine:

Why this matters:

Optional / Situation-Dependent Vaccinations

Scabby Mouth (Orf):

Ovine Johne’s Disease (OJD):

Annual Boosters